Signature Cocktail
A bespoke (men’s) Skincare Guide
(An edited version of this article
appeared on Mr. Porter, October 2020)
While curated and craft evoke images more martini than moisturizer, any man capable of a little negroni magic can unquestionably curate his own skincare curriculum. The right regimen can not only cloak unpleasant skin secrets, but also boast your best self forward. Despite the myriad of panic-inducing options on the market, let us bring forth a simpler plan to fashion your own skincare wardrobe, with contemporary classics that yield solid foundations. From cleansers to crème, bespoke construction relies on a few tailored basics, dependent on your own personal needs, give or take a garnish or two.
Step 1 | CLEANSE
No amount of devilish good looks can supersede the importance of a finely buffed base - a cleansed palette that sets the stage, so to speak, for every choice that lies thereinafter. That rush of musty wind you feel awaiting the metro’s arrival? That’s in your pores, dear Sir, and its presence must be expertly dismissed. Like the continued hunt for a perfect single- malt, finding the perfect cleanser is forever subjective and the demands of each season might dictate a few varying guests on the vanity sink. If skin feels uncomfortably tight after exiting the shower, opt for a light mousse that won’t strip skin’s natural oils like Shiseido Men’s Cleansing Foam (that doubles as a shaving cream). For the more naughty of complexions that need a bit more muscle, the no-fuss Anthony Glycolic Facial Cleanser relies on alpha-hydroxy acids (think 1990’s Pacman on the hunt) to make way through excess dirt and debris, or opt for Clinique’s Anti-Blemish Cleansing Foam to ensures the sweaty moto helmet leaves not one spot behind on your flawless bad-boy façade.
Step 2 | TREAT
While fine wines and your glowing wit continue to get better with age, your skin needs a bit more loving care than a simple scrub and a splash. Fresh skin is primed to receive, so any skin issues you're enduring should be addressed now. Invest in a concentrated treatment that works in tandem with the rest of your regimen - think specific ingredients that target issues of concern. As un-skippable as Campari in your negroni, the treatment phase of your regimen is essential and dictates active change. Sun spots from too long on the surf board call out for a melanin disruptor, like Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Brightening Serum - loaded with Cress Sprout Extract and antioxidants that work synergistically to reduce dark and yellowing patches. If pores are still in protest and overcrowding is an issue, Grown Alchemist Detox Serum is lightweight, oil free and melts quickly into the skin, taking aim on free radicals that age and dull the epidermis. For the more wrinkle- worried among you, ingredients like Rosehip Oil tout the benefits of ‘nature’s retinol’,
without any of the irritating side effects: you’ll find it in Grown Alchemist Pure Rosehip Oil as well as Sisley’s L'Intégral Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate.
Step 3 | HYDRATE & PROTECT
Two ingredients do not a cocktail make, and while not too far from the construction of a simple 1-1-1 recipe, refining your skincare regime calls lastly for hydration, no matter the skin type. Even for the oiliest among us, skin still needs water daily, and while this might seem counterintuitive, denying your skin proper hydration only encourages it to create more oil. More oil, more problems, and well, you know the rest of the song.
For the stickier months, take advantage of lighter textures that call on hyaluronic acid to plump up fine lines and hydrate deeply, without excess oil. Dr. Dennis Gross’s Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer is gentle enough for the most sensitive of souls, but packed with actives to replenish and strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier. Those still left longing can opt for slightly more robust textures like Perricone MD’s Hyaluronic Intensive Moisturizer that boasts additional Rosemary leaf extract, leaving skin looking delightfully firm. Bonus points for wearing protection of course - all the best skintentions are futile without adequate SPF. Stars like Shiseido Expert Sun Aging Protection SPF 30 keep you covered from undoing all your diligent hard work.
Like juicy olives to your dirty martini, safe sun is obligatory.
Step 4 | PRACTICE PATIENCE
Advanced degrees in mixology do not come without a bit of trial and error of course, but a few tenets of good skin-tending must be administered and adhered to in hopes of yielding the most manly-yet-glowing exterior. Small changes are cumulative, but do resist the urge to change all things, all at once. Like the barman with just too much zeal on one too many pours, the whole scenario can turn into one (avoidable) mess in even the most eager of hands, if not a bit of restraint is applied.
Step 5 | LAST CALL
Once your library of classics is solidified, then, welcoming guest stars is much less risky. Sheet masks & chill with your better half? No harm there. A generous de-puffing eye cream after a boozier night out? Your new loyal friend. Choose accordingly, commit vehemently. Something effective needn’t be wildly expansive, but only with steady, deliberate choices can one instigate change. Practice makes precision, and you sir are the maestro: A routine that’s buildable, sometimes shakable, never non-committal.
Like you, a necessary classic.